Born in the historic coastal town of Santurtzi near Bilbao, Nieves Barragán Mohacho grew up watching sardineras—women in colorful traditional skirts selling sardines. Her mother, a passionate home cook, instilled an early appreciation for ingredients and cooking, creating rich, flavorful dishes from locally sourced produce and using every cut of meat.
London Journey Begins
After studying graphic design in Bilbao and working in basic kitchens to finance her studies, Nieves moved to London at 19 in 1998. With no English or French language skills, she started as a Kitchen Porter at the legendary Simply Nico in Pimlico under chef Nico Ladenis.
Her enthusiasm and evident promise saw rapid progression from Kitchen Porter to Salads, then through various sections as her English improved. After two and a half years, she reached Chef de Partie before the Harts Group recruited her as Sous Chef for their new Spanish restaurant.
Spanish Food Revolution
Fino opened in 2003, marking the first time Nieves cooked her homeland’s cuisine in London. The restaurant became an instant hit, with queues frequently forming outside. When the head chef departed three years later, Nieves took control, introducing dishes that released powerful childhood flavor memories.
Fino’s success led to Barrafina in 2007, a no-reservations tapas concept where Nieves became Executive Chef of both restaurants. The 2013 Michelin Guide awarded Barrafina a Michelin star—unusual for such informal dining. Two additional Barrafina locations followed in 2014 and 2015.
Creating Her Legacy
In 2017, partnering with José Etura and restaurant group JKS, Nieves opened Sabor on Heddon Street, showcasing Spanish cuisine beyond tapas. Building on Sabor’s success and driven to bring her cultural identity to life, she delved deeper into Spain’s regional traditions.
Late summer 2025 saw her biggest project yet: Legado (meaning legacy) in Shoreditch—her creative playground where years of research, evolving ideas, and culinary discoveries culminate in a restaurant that truly represents her remarkable journey from Santurtzi to London’s culinary elite.
