Perched high above the vibrant city skyline, Dewakan offers an experience where the magnificent view is just the first course. The restaurant’s name itself—a portmanteau of the Malay words dewa (god) and makan (to eat)—promises a divine culinary encounter. And it delivers, not with mythical ingredients, but by profoundly honouring the bounty of Malaysia’s own lands.
At the helm is Chef Darren Teoh, a culinary artist who treats each plate as a canvas. He masterfully combines and connects indigenous ingredients sourced from the nation’s farms, jungles, mountains, and seas. This is more than a menu; it is a tribute to the local farmers, fishers, and artisans whose passion is the foundation of every dish.
The result is a story of Malaysia’s terroir manifested in edible art, a journey as breathtaking as the panoramic vista laid out before you. At Dewakan, where every seat offers a magnificent view of the KLCC towers, each bite is an exploration of Malaysian culture – a standard of excellence recognized with two Michelin Stars and a coveted Michelin Green Star.
An Introduction to Terroir
Stepping into Dewakan’s serene space, the experience begins long before the first dish arrives. We were guided past the buzzing open kitchen to a station showcasing the very soul of the restaurant’s philosophy. Here, we were invited to touch, smell, and taste an array of local herbs, nuts, and unique Malaysian produce. It was a sensory primer for the meal ahead.
Most impressive was the wall of pickles and ferments, a living library of vibrant jars. We learned that these were crafted from off-cuts and discards from the kitchen’s prep, a tangible commitment to minimizing waste and extracting flavour from every part of an ingredient. It was a brilliant way to attune our palates and minds to the journey we were about to embark on, prepping our expectations for the story that would soon unfold on our plates.
A Symphony of Flavours: The 14-Course Journey
The 14-course tasting menu is a masterclass in balance and restraint. Each plate celebrated the freshness of its core ingredient, showcasing a delicate dance of flavours in which no single ingredient overpowered the others. Instead, Chef Teoh builds layers of flavour, creating a harmonious chorus that is complex yet beautifully clear.
1. Hot smoked sturgeon from Tanjung Malim in a cold button mangosteen soup with sea grapes.
2. Slightly cured crayfish skewered with aromatic twigs with yeast sauce.
3. Thinly sliced cuttlefish and crab roe in a reduced guava juice dressing.
4. Rice tempeh dumpling filled with clams in an egg soup.
5. Adan rice steamed in a mahang leaf served with venison and kerdas.
6. Greens on a breadfruit crisp.
7. Rajah Brooke’s Birdwing – belinjau, labu siam, keranji.
8. Braised cock’s crest and stone crab seasoned with salted litsea.
9. Retired dairy cow plate – different preparations with snake fruit and grilled greens.
10. A hot broth before some sweet dishes.
11. Perah ice cream with candied kundang and tropical chestnut.
12. Coconut jelly with mulberry and bambangan juice.
13. Cacao-less chocolate made with dabai, served with rose fudge in a heart of palm and keluak tart shell.
14. Kuih Breudher.
Even the way water is served tells a story. It arrives not in a glass carafe, but in a Labu Sayong, a traditional Malaysian earthenware vessel. This beautiful, gourd-shaped water pitcher, originating from Perak, is made of clay and naturally keeps water cool through evaporation—a clever nod to the days before refrigeration.
This profound thoughtfulness is woven into every detail. The commitment to honouring local heritage, from indigenous ingredients to traditional crafts like the Labu Sayong, and the deep respect for sustainability demonstrated by the “no-waste” philosophy, make it clear why Dewakan was not only awarded two Michelin stars but also its prestigious Michelin Green Star.
The Dawn of a New Culinary Era in Kuala Lumpur
Dewakan is more than just a restaurant; it’s a benchmark for a new era in Malaysian fine dining. With the arrival of the Michelin Guide in Kuala Lumpur, the city’s culinary landscape is undergoing a thrilling transformation. More and more fine dining establishments are rising up, championing local identity with world-class execution and gaining the international recognition they deserve.
For food lovers around the globe, this culinary renaissance provides one more compelling reason to visit KL. The city’s dining scene is vibrant, innovative, and unapologetically Malaysian—and with pioneers like Dewakan leading the charge, the future of its gastronomic story has never looked brighter.
Address: Platinum Park, Level 48, Skyviews, Naza Tower @, Persiaran KLCC, Kuala Lumpur City Centre, 50088 Kuala Lumpur, Federal Territory of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Phone: +60 12-789 6720
Menu: dewakan.my
Reservations: dewakan.my